Paint Or Refinish Floors To Redecorate And Increase Home Value

Paint or refinish floors? Either is a great way to perk up, modernize, or redecorate any home. Real estate experts state that older, dull, or ugly floors not only offend the eye, they knock thousands off the price of a home. On the other hand, choosing to paint or refinish floors can increase the value of the home by thousands more than they cost.

When deciding whether to paint or refinish floors, you should first picture in your mind how you want the room to present itself. Painting hardwood floors a white or off white color can make a room cheery and sunny. This is great for sunrooms and children's bedrooms. Bathrooms can also be made brighter with a white floor, and they are easy to clean. Also, rooms that have very old, wide planked floors often appear less antiquated when painted. Many times, people will choose to paint these floors a darker color.

Painting a hardwood floor tends to be easier than refinishing. Both require the floor to be thoroughly cleaned and sanded. Normally, the painting only needs two or three coats and can be applied with a paint roller. Also, painted floors do not need a finish. Oil based paints are recommended over latex because they are more durable and easier to clean.

Interior designers choose a refinished floor versus a painted floor because refinished hardwood floors have a more classic look. A dining room can be made more formal with a stained floor. Rooms that need to appear more spacious do well with a finish over natural wood. People sometimes choose a darker finish because it does not show scuff marks as easily as lighter and painted floors.

Refinishing a floor takes a little more work than painting. It is typically applied by brush or sponge, according to the products directions. One coat of stain should be thinly applied and thoroughly dry before beginning a new coat. Once they are stained, they will need to have finish applied. Most products require a very light sanding between coats of finish.

Whether you choose to paint or refinish floors it can be hard work. Once completed, you will be very glad you did it. You will have a beautiful new room accented by the new flooring. Not only will you have increased the value of your home, you will have a room that you will want to spend all your time in.

Visit us for more information on installing hardwood floors, hardwood floor refinishing how to and how to install bamboo hardwood floors.

Building Your House Help

Pressure Treated Lumber

If you are building a deck, retaining wall or a swing set for the kids it is highly likely that your material of choice is pressure treated lumber.

Pressure treated lumber, if installed properly, should provide a 40 year useable life. However, there are some things about pressure treated lumber that you have to know, in order to obtain that life and not have your project fall apart in a few years.

To create pressure treated lumber, raw lumber is impregnated with two waterborne compounds that are copper based chemicals. The amount of copper basically determines the usage and all pressure treated lumber, sold in the US, is supposed to have a tag stapled to the end of the board signifying its pounds of preservative per cubic foot of wood product:

0.25 Above Ground

0.40 Ground Contact

0.60 Permanent Wood Foundation

2.50 Salt Water

Because the lumber is impregnated with Copper, the choice of fasteners becomes very important. When two dissimilar metals come in contact with one another a galvanic reaction is created, the outcome is that the materials corrode and disintegrate. The higher the levels of copper in the lumber the faster that the corrosion will occur.

Although most people realize that they must use corrosion resistant fasteners and connectors many do not consider items such as flashings and light poles that are also in contact with the pressure treated lumber. Of course the best metals to use for fasteners, flashings and anything else that comes in contact with the deck is stainless steel or copper whenever possible. Stainless steel is expensive and copper is not conveniently available at your local lumber supply so the next best material is steel that has been galvanized.

Galvanized fasteners come in different grades (the thickness of the coating), better manufactures mark the box with a G rating. The higher the G rating, the more zinc used. You shouldnt use less than a G-90 rating and engineers are now suggesting the use of G-185. If the box is not marked it is probably a G-60 or less and this will not provide enough zinc coating to prevent galvanization from occurring. Cadmium plated nuts, bolts and screws do not provide any protection from corrosion whatsoever.

Some manufactures have created composite coatings for use with pressure treated lumber. Read the label on the box and make sure that what you are buying is suitable for the job.

Do not use aluminum flashing, deck flashing must be stainless steel, galvanized or copper. Aluminum corrodes very quickly when in contact with copper. This also means that metals items that come in contact with the pressure treated lumber must also be protected, items such as outdoor furniture, and barbeques should have rubber or vinyl feet or wheels.

For additional information on pressure treated lumber for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Pressure Treated Lumber

If you are building a deck, retaining wall or a swing set for the kids it is highly likely that your material of choice is pressure treated lumber.

Pressure treated lumber, if installed properly, should provide a 40 year useable life. However, there are some things about pressure treated lumber that you have to know, in order to obtain that life and not have your project fall apart in a few years.

To create pressure treated lumber, raw lumber is impregnated with two waterborne compounds that are copper based chemicals. The amount of copper basically determines the usage and all pressure treated lumber, sold in the US, is supposed to have a tag stapled to the end of the board signifying its pounds of preservative per cubic foot of wood product:

0.25 Above Ground

0.40 Ground Contact

0.60 Permanent Wood Foundation

2.50 Salt Water

Because the lumber is impregnated with Copper, the choice of fasteners becomes very important. When two dissimilar metals come in contact with one another a galvanic reaction is created, the outcome is that the materials corrode and disintegrate. The higher the levels of copper in the lumber the faster that the corrosion will occur.

Although most people realize that they must use corrosion resistant fasteners and connectors many do not consider items such as flashings and light poles that are also in contact with the pressure treated lumber. Of course the best metals to use for fasteners, flashings and anything else that comes in contact with the deck is stainless steel or copper whenever possible. Stainless steel is expensive and copper is not conveniently available at your local lumber supply so the next best material is steel that has been galvanized.

Galvanized fasteners come in different grades (the thickness of the coating), better manufactures mark the box with a G rating. The higher the G rating, the more zinc used. You shouldnt use less than a G-90 rating and engineers are now suggesting the use of G-185. If the box is not marked it is probably a G-60 or less and this will not provide enough zinc coating to prevent galvanization from occurring. Cadmium plated nuts, bolts and screws do not provide any protection from corrosion whatsoever.

Some manufactures have created composite coatings for use with pressure treated lumber. Read the label on the box and make sure that what you are buying is suitable for the job.

Do not use aluminum flashing, deck flashing must be stainless steel, galvanized or copper. Aluminum corrodes very quickly when in contact with copper. This also means that metals items that come in contact with the pressure treated lumber must also be protected, items such as outdoor furniture, and barbeques should have rubber or vinyl feet or wheels.

For additional information on pressure treated lumber for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Church With Bell Tower

Metal Shingles

Metal shingles were previously seen as roofing material for low-slope houses. Over the years, they have been found out to be a significant roofing alternative for steep-sloped roofs as well.

Metal shingles are usually meant to look like traditional asphalt shingles, wood shakes, or tiles, but metal shingles come with a greater guarantee to ward off rough weather. Many consider these shingles to be the strongest roofing material available. Contrary to popular belief, modern technology has made metal shingles very light, and they are a feast for the eyes, and also have very high fire-resistant ratings.

These classic shingles give a building a timeless look and often come with permanent color warranties. They can be made out of a wide variety of metals like aluminum, copper, stainless steel, zinc and phosphate coating, and alloys of tin and zinc. The different metals can be suitably chosen by the prospective buyer according to his geographical location and climate.

There are other minor details that a buyer should keep in mind. Stainless steel shingles are said to weigh less than most other traditional roofing material. Metal shingles made with alloys of zinc and aluminum should ideally not be painted. Tin roofs should be painted at an interval of eight years. Zinc and tin alloys are perfect for rough coastal weather. These are the various issues that should be considered before making one's choice.

There are a number of benefits that the owner can enjoy once he chooses metal shingles as his primary roofing material. They come with excellent resistance guarantee to strong wind, fires, hail and storms, earthquakes, and other such natural calamities. They are also well protected from pests and are extremely anti-corrosive. Most manufacturers offer a fifty-year warranty on their metal shingles.

Metal shingles are mostly recycled and statistics show that they are, in most cases, 100% recyclable. Installation is also relatively simple, but consulting a roofing professional would probably be considered a smart idea.

Shingles provides detailed information about shingles, cedar shingles, fiberglass shingles and more. Shingles is affiliated with Home Foundation Repair.

Framing Square With Stair Gauges

The Challenge of Finishing a Basement

My husband and I just finished our basement to use as a bar and home theater. We discovered that by finishing a basement, you can add valuable family area to your home. We didnt, however, find this out the easy way.

After a few good yelling matches, one streak of paint on the side of my husband's face, and a high-speed chase up the stairs and into the backyard, I am ready to tell you how to finish a basement without going crazy. Here are a few tips that we discovered during our interesting basement process.

Choose the Right Insulation:

So, we decided it would be a good idea to install insulation in our basement ourselves. 'Quality time', at least that is what my husband called it. What I think he meant was less money. So, we went right to the store and picked up enough rolls of insulation for finishing a basement that was the our size.

You know, that sheet kind that grows like 5,000 percent when you slit the packaging open? We got to work on that, and within a day and a half we were ready to bury each other in it. We had itchy insulation in places on our bodies that we didnt even know we had. The entire basement was polluted with insulation fibers, and I dont even want to discuss the what we experienced cutting it to size.

After a few of days, we realized we were not getting anywhere, so my husband called and had a professional come out. After chuckling at us for a moment, he told us there was a much easier way. He ended up using a type of foam spray insulation, and was done in a few days. We discovered it would work more effectively, because it expanded to fit in all of the nooks and crannies behind the basement walls. Lesson learned.

Check for a Few Important Things:

When youre finishing a basement, there are a few things you want to make sure you dont overlook. I did Well, my husband overlooked it and I just didnt notice him overlooking it.

Make sure you have enough electrical outlets for what youll be using your basement for. You know, finishing a basement to convert it into a bar really needs a good number of outlets. Lesson learned.

Make sure you have enough lighting fixtures. Without them, finishing a basement can be tough, and once you get it done, you may not be able to see properly in the murky dimness of your basement. This can lead to some serious toe-stubbing. Lesson learned.

Walls and Floors:

First of all, there are some wall and floor materials and types that you never want to go with for your basement. Because of the higher moisture content in the air, theyre just not smart ideas. Some of these include:

- Sheetrock
- Carpet
- Hardwood Floors
- OSB board
- Faux Stone Floors

Instead, opt for some type of moisture resistant paneling for the walls, and a nice real stone floor, or staining your existing concrete floors. Finishing a basement can really drive you crazy, but luckily you have learned from my mistakes. Save your basement and your marriage by following the tips and ideas in this article!

Amy G created the Basement Idea website to help others with more fantastic basement ideas and simple ways to finish their basement.

Do It Yourself Home Help

Tips For Removing Linoleum

When it comes time to get new flooring you can save money by removing the old flooring yourself but if you have old linoleum on your floors you might be in for quite a challenge. Depending on how old the linoleum is and the type of adhesive that was used it can be extremely difficult to get up.

First of all, it's unlikely that you'll be able to just remove the linoleum and adhesive all at once. The surface under the linoleum and the damage you might cause it needs to be considered - especially if that surface is wood. Concrete floors can take a lot more in the way of rough treatment. The type of scraper you use has a lot to do with your success as well as the damage to the floor underneath. Many people use paint scrapers but those with a razor blade are usually more efficient. Be prepared to break some blades it if the adhesive is hard, and you're working on concrete.

Try cutting the linoleum into strips or sections instead of removing the whole chunk at once. This will make it easier to get an edge to pry up. Of course, the linoleum probably wont come up in nice neat sections so be prepared to deal with a lot of left over backing and glue that is still attached to your floor.

One way to deal with those remnants that just wont come up is to apply some kind of solvent or remover. A popular brand is Krud Kutter, which appears to work very well from the customer feedback comments. Follow directions on the label of whatever product you employ, and wear gloves to protect your hands. Do a small section at a time, and then move to the next one.

Another technique is to use boiling water and pour it directly on the backing and adhesive. Let it soak and then scrape up. If you dont want to use water, you can try to heat up the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun. Pick a very inconspicuous area, such as behind a door, to try it. Heat the adhesive with the hair dryer and scrape it up with a straight-blade scraper (like a stiff putty knife with a beveled edge). Move the scraper in the direction of the grain of the wood if you are uncovering a hardwood floor. Have a pan or some other container handy to drop the scrapings into - one that is unlikely to either melt or ignite when coming in contact with hot materials. Be very careful if you are using a heat gun as this can easily damage the floor underneath if it is wood.

If worse comes to worse and you are left with some stubborn adhesive on the floors, it might be time to sand. Of course, if your floors are wood and you plan to refinish them you would need to sand anyway, but during this step you must be careful not to damage the particular area by keeping the sander on it for too long.

Once you finally get the linoleum and all traces of adhesive up, you are ready to seal the floor as recommended for the type of flooring and apply the new floor as recommended!

Lee Dobbins writes for A Kitchen Decorating Idea where you can find more tips on kitchen remodeling and decorating on a budget.

Home Remodeling
Fallbrook Church Bell Tower

Careful Considerations When Buying Bamboo Shades

Inspired by cultures around the world, bamboo shades or woven woods can encompass any decorating stylefrom sophisticated and contemporary to casual and relaxed. The lining options, mounting options and cord operation systems are just as important as the style of shade you choose.

Bamboo Shades come with a choice of 4 lining options that can dramatically change the look of bamboo shades;

Standard - The standard shade configuration is unlined as shown above. Most patterns gently filter light.

Privacy Liner - A light beige lining is expertly sewn to the backside of the shade. This provides full privacy and a uniform light color facing the street.

Blackout Liner - A white blackout lining is expertly sewn to the backside of the shade. This blocks almost all light coming through the material.

Duo Shade - A roller shade behind the Roman shade is available in privacy (shown) or blackout fabrics. Makes any shade private as you wish - perfect to pull down at night.

It is important to hold the sample of the bamboo shade up to the window, especially an unlined shade. A material in the sample book will usually reflect what the shade will look like if you chose it with a blackout backing. With an unlined bamboo shade, depending on the tightness of the weave, the shade may or may not be see through. A see through pattern offers no privacy at night. The privacy lining will still let light enter the room, but gives full privacy. The disadvantage is that you will have to raise the shade to see out the window. The blackout lining is sometimes misunderstood due to it filters out about 95% of the light when the shades are down. Some companies are starting to name blackout shades room darkening due to customers thought blackout shades would cut 100% of the light. Lining or not, a good rule of thumb is to take the sample out of the sample book and hold it up to the window.

Mounting options for bamboo shades can vary depending on the look you are trying to capture. A bamboo shade can be mounted inside the windowsill or outside the window sill. An inside mounted bamboo shade is a clean tucked away look that is flush with the window sill edge. There are some important considerations with an inside mounted bamboo shade. Since bamboo shades have a large stack when pulled up, you will loose viewing area out of the window with an inside mounted shade. Another disadvantage is when the windows are not square and you will have larger gaps in some areas between the edge of the shade and the window sill. The gaps will be very noticeable if you chose the blackout lining option. Another important consideration when using an inside mount is that bamboo shades will stretch and six months later will pucker out slightly at the bottom due to the shade hitting the bottom of the window sill. An outside mounted shade is a more finished look and can add height to any window. Outside mounted bamboo shades are usually mounted 3 above the window and overlap 2 on each side. They can be mounted higher that 3 to make the window appear larger and to have the stack cover less of the window when the shade is in the up position. One advantage with an outside mount is when the shade stretches a little, it will not make a difference because the shade is hanging freely. In this case, the shade will look the same six months later from the day they were installed. A shade with a blackout lining usually looks better when mounted outside because you will not see the space between the edge of the shade and window sill. Further, you can block the light better due to the overlapping of 2 past the window. Whether the shade is mounted inside or outside, after taking these suggestions into consideration you will love your bamboo shades for many years.

Finally, there are two different cord operation systems for bamboo shades. Most companies use a cord-lock system as a standard feature with no extra charge. Another option is a continuous cord operation that costs a little extra, but has its advantages. When a shade is in the up position with a cord-lock system the cords will usually hang on the ground. Also, depending on the usage of the shade, the cords in a cord-lock system will burn out faster than a continuous cord operation system. With a continuous cord system, the length of the cord will always stay the same length regardless of the shade position. The cords on a continuous cord system usually hang the length of the shade, but can be custom lengths if homeowner chooses. Further, you will never have cords hanging on the ground to step on or the kids to play with. Another advantage is that bamboo shades in large windows will be heavy, especially if they have a lining, to lift up and down so the continuous cord system can help because it is a stronger system and will make those large windows feel easy. The only disadvantage with a continuous cord system is that the head rail is larger and you will need at least 3 of mounting space on an inside mounted shade so the shade will not stick out past the window sill. In conclusion, carefully consider spending a couple extra bucks to have a clean hassle-free look.

Stairbanisters