By: Robert Young
What does a BURGLAR like?
Experience has shown us that burglars like many things (mostly other people's things), but most thieves prefer two conditions.
1. An invitation, and
2. A fast, easy, undetected entry and exit.
Burglary invitations aren't stuffed into envelopes as are birthday party invites; nor do we hang signs on our doors - "BURGLARS WELCOME" - the way we attach balloons to the mailbox. However, invitations are sent and signs are posted which are equally effective. Have you ever had a neighbor go on vacation and you see the newspapers pile up on the front step or the mail overflow from the mailbox? These are sure signs that nobody is around.
Other invites you might recognize include:
- Unkempt yard.
- Keys left in your vehicle while you run into the store.
- Dark or concealed hiding areas.
- Windows left open when you are away.
- Notes on the door explaining where you have gone.
- The spare house key left on top of the door jam. (Did you think no one knew that key was there?)
- Messages on the answering machine stating that you are away.
- An open garage door.
- Sliding glass door, without auxiliary locks.
- A house unlit night after night.
- Privacy fence.
- Flimsy door latches and locks.
- Basement windows.
After receiving his invitation, the burglar also looks for a quick, undetected entry and exit. He will choose the path of least resistance, which affords him the best chance of getting away without being caught. For this reason, most burglars work the night shift hiding under the cover of darkness. This is an opportunity afforded by nature; other access and escape opportunities, which we provide include:
- A large shrub in front of a window
- A dark alley behind the residence
- A privacy fence around the yard
- An unlocked door or window
- A sliding glass door
- An exterior door without a deadbolt lock
Stay safe! Visit www.UrbanSafetySupplies.com and www.HiTechHiddenCameras.com for all of your self defense and security item needs.
About The Author
Robert Young is the owner and operator of Urban Safety Supplies and Hi-Tech Hidden Cameras. Stay safe! Visit www.urbansafetysupplies.com for all your security item needs. Stun guns, pepper spray, personal alarms, and more! Also visit www.hittechhiddencameras.com and see our hidden cameras, spy, and surveillance equipment.
mail@urbansafetysupplies.com
Friday, March 21, 2008
Broken Key Removal
(Pin Tumbler Locks)
By: Roger J. Fischer
Having a key break off in one of your locks can be a real pain in the neck. But with the proper information you can better understand the problem and take steps to solve it. With the information I provide in this article, you stand a very good chance of removing the key yourself and preventing it from happening to you in the future.
WHAT CAUSES KEYS TO BREAK
Most keys, even brass and nickle-plated keys, will eventually wear out and break along any of a key's cuts. But some conditions will speed up the process such as:
1. The key has one or more deep cuts which become the "weak point" of the key. After so much use (or just a little abuse) the key will break at these points. Having a deep cut as the first cut (next to the head of the key) can be real trouble but a deep cut in the middle of the key can cause big problems too;
2. The key is made of a light-weight material not suitable for everyday use. Keys cut on aluminum blanks are a prime example. They will also break at a deep-cut "weak point" only sooner. Identified by their light weight and either grey in color or sometimes bright colors such as red, green, blue or gold.
Usually before a key breaks, one or more tiny cracks will appear by the cut about to give way. You may want to check your keys right now -at least the ones that you use and depend on every day. If you see a tiny crack being formed by one of the cuts or if the key is bent or misshapen in any way, go to your nearest locksmith or key shop and get another one or two made. And just to be safe, don't carelessly toss the old key away. A new key could be made from the pieces and used to access your property.
BROKEN KEY REMOVAL TOOLS
We locksmiths have a variety of tools for removing broken keys from locks. One of the more common tools I use is made of springy steel that is 5" long, 5/16" wide at the handle and .022" thick. There is a small tapered barb at the end of this tool that will dig or "bite" into the broken key piece so the piece can be pulled out.
It is not absolutely necessary to invest in a broken key extractor tool. As long as the tool you use is made of sturdy metal, is narrow enough to enter the keyway, and has a barb to grab on to the broken key you will likely be successful. A scroll saw or jig saw blade should do the trick.
PROCEDURE #1 - Partial Key Broken Off In Lock
When a deep cut gets too weak somewhere in the middle of a key, you end up with the front part of the key in the lock and the remainder in your hand. The good news is the lock is probably in the proper position for key removal (more on that later).
FIRST - unless the lock has been in good working order (with the key going in and out smoothly) prior to the key breaking off, I suggest spraying a lubricant such as WD-40 or Tri-Flow in the lock's keyway first. You want the broken key piece to slip out as easy as possible and a dry or gummy lock will make the job harder.
SECOND - insert the removal tool into the lock's keyway so that the barb (or teeth) can contact the cuts of the key piece to be removed. You should be able to tell how far to insert the tool based on how much of the key you still have in your hand.
THIRD - let the barb "bite" into one of the cuts of the broken key piece and give the tool a sharp tug towards you. The key piece should coming flying out.
FOURTH - take the two pieces of the key to your local locksmith or key center and get another one or two made.
PROCEDURE #2 - All But Key's Head Broken Off In Lock
When the first cut in the key is deep and gets too weak, you end up with just the head of the key in your hand. Most of the time what remains in the lock is the operating part of the key. That is, all key cuts that are necessary to operate the lock are stuck in the lock (if you are really lucky, enough of the key will be sticking out so a small pliers/tweezers are all you need to remove the broken piece-but that usually doesn't happen). You can test if the lock will operate by taking a small screwdriver and, using it like a key, try turning the lock cylinder. If the lock cylinder does not turn follow procedure #1. If you can turn the cylinder more than a few degrees to the right or left you have to make sure the lock cylinder is positioned so the key can be removed. Let me explain...
Most locks have one position that a lock cylinder must be in for key removal. If you were to insert a key in most any pin tumbler lock and turn it, the key could not be removed until the lock cylinder is back in the proper key removal position. The same is true when removing a broken key piece that still works the lock. The key cylinder must be in its normal key removal position or you will be wasting your time trying to remove the broken piece.
FIRST - as in Procedure #1, we suggest spraying a lubricant such as WD-40 or Tri-Flow in the lock's keyway first.
SECOND - insert the removal tool into the lock's keyway so that the barb (or teeth) can contact the cuts of the key piece to be removed. You should not have to insert the tool very far - just so it reaches the first or second cut of the key piece.
THIRD - let the barb "bite" into one of the cuts of the broken key piece and give the tool a sharp tug towards you. The key piece should coming flying out of the keyway.
FOURTH - take the two pieces of the key to your local locksmith or key center and get another one or two made.
Now that you have read through this information, you should be ready to attempt removing a broken key on your own. Good Luck! NOTE: This article (with pictures) can also be found on my web site www.GoldKeySelect.com.
About The Author
Roger J. Fischer is a security professional with over 25 years of experience in providing security solutions for his customers. For more articles related to security, safety and a variety of other topics visit http://www.GoldKeySelect.com
By: Roger J. Fischer
Having a key break off in one of your locks can be a real pain in the neck. But with the proper information you can better understand the problem and take steps to solve it. With the information I provide in this article, you stand a very good chance of removing the key yourself and preventing it from happening to you in the future.
WHAT CAUSES KEYS TO BREAK
Most keys, even brass and nickle-plated keys, will eventually wear out and break along any of a key's cuts. But some conditions will speed up the process such as:
1. The key has one or more deep cuts which become the "weak point" of the key. After so much use (or just a little abuse) the key will break at these points. Having a deep cut as the first cut (next to the head of the key) can be real trouble but a deep cut in the middle of the key can cause big problems too;
2. The key is made of a light-weight material not suitable for everyday use. Keys cut on aluminum blanks are a prime example. They will also break at a deep-cut "weak point" only sooner. Identified by their light weight and either grey in color or sometimes bright colors such as red, green, blue or gold.
Usually before a key breaks, one or more tiny cracks will appear by the cut about to give way. You may want to check your keys right now -at least the ones that you use and depend on every day. If you see a tiny crack being formed by one of the cuts or if the key is bent or misshapen in any way, go to your nearest locksmith or key shop and get another one or two made. And just to be safe, don't carelessly toss the old key away. A new key could be made from the pieces and used to access your property.
BROKEN KEY REMOVAL TOOLS
We locksmiths have a variety of tools for removing broken keys from locks. One of the more common tools I use is made of springy steel that is 5" long, 5/16" wide at the handle and .022" thick. There is a small tapered barb at the end of this tool that will dig or "bite" into the broken key piece so the piece can be pulled out.
It is not absolutely necessary to invest in a broken key extractor tool. As long as the tool you use is made of sturdy metal, is narrow enough to enter the keyway, and has a barb to grab on to the broken key you will likely be successful. A scroll saw or jig saw blade should do the trick.
PROCEDURE #1 - Partial Key Broken Off In Lock
When a deep cut gets too weak somewhere in the middle of a key, you end up with the front part of the key in the lock and the remainder in your hand. The good news is the lock is probably in the proper position for key removal (more on that later).
FIRST - unless the lock has been in good working order (with the key going in and out smoothly) prior to the key breaking off, I suggest spraying a lubricant such as WD-40 or Tri-Flow in the lock's keyway first. You want the broken key piece to slip out as easy as possible and a dry or gummy lock will make the job harder.
SECOND - insert the removal tool into the lock's keyway so that the barb (or teeth) can contact the cuts of the key piece to be removed. You should be able to tell how far to insert the tool based on how much of the key you still have in your hand.
THIRD - let the barb "bite" into one of the cuts of the broken key piece and give the tool a sharp tug towards you. The key piece should coming flying out.
FOURTH - take the two pieces of the key to your local locksmith or key center and get another one or two made.
PROCEDURE #2 - All But Key's Head Broken Off In Lock
When the first cut in the key is deep and gets too weak, you end up with just the head of the key in your hand. Most of the time what remains in the lock is the operating part of the key. That is, all key cuts that are necessary to operate the lock are stuck in the lock (if you are really lucky, enough of the key will be sticking out so a small pliers/tweezers are all you need to remove the broken piece-but that usually doesn't happen). You can test if the lock will operate by taking a small screwdriver and, using it like a key, try turning the lock cylinder. If the lock cylinder does not turn follow procedure #1. If you can turn the cylinder more than a few degrees to the right or left you have to make sure the lock cylinder is positioned so the key can be removed. Let me explain...
Most locks have one position that a lock cylinder must be in for key removal. If you were to insert a key in most any pin tumbler lock and turn it, the key could not be removed until the lock cylinder is back in the proper key removal position. The same is true when removing a broken key piece that still works the lock. The key cylinder must be in its normal key removal position or you will be wasting your time trying to remove the broken piece.
FIRST - as in Procedure #1, we suggest spraying a lubricant such as WD-40 or Tri-Flow in the lock's keyway first.
SECOND - insert the removal tool into the lock's keyway so that the barb (or teeth) can contact the cuts of the key piece to be removed. You should not have to insert the tool very far - just so it reaches the first or second cut of the key piece.
THIRD - let the barb "bite" into one of the cuts of the broken key piece and give the tool a sharp tug towards you. The key piece should coming flying out of the keyway.
FOURTH - take the two pieces of the key to your local locksmith or key center and get another one or two made.
Now that you have read through this information, you should be ready to attempt removing a broken key on your own. Good Luck! NOTE: This article (with pictures) can also be found on my web site www.GoldKeySelect.com.
About The Author
Roger J. Fischer is a security professional with over 25 years of experience in providing security solutions for his customers. For more articles related to security, safety and a variety of other topics visit http://www.GoldKeySelect.com
Bookcase Ideas
Bookcases: What Kind Do You Need?
By: Martha Mountjoy
In our modern, multi-media world, the idea of a "bookcase" is almost quaint. The items many people use as bookcases are sold as "entertainment storage units" and can also be used for CDs, DVDs and other media. These often come with adjustable shelves (to accommodate the variance in height between CDs and books) and are sold unassembled at places like Wal-Mart and Target.
These pre-fab storage units usually function well enough as bookcases, CDs racks or knickknack holders, but they lack the elegance and stateliness of the old-fashioned bookcases. They are usually made of cheaper material, too, and are not nearly as sturdy. They work well if you only have a couple dozen books to display, which is common today, as many consumers own far more CDs and DVDs than books anyway.
If you have a large library of books, a more traditional bookcase may be in order. The price range on these bookcases run the gamut, all the way from hand-crafted mahogany cases to less costly but still elegant shelves available at places like Pier 1 or Pottery Barn. The difference between them and the "entertainment storage units" is that these bookcases are usually made of higher quality wood and have the look of a traditional bookcase. The more expensive ones come already assembled and finished, but you can get very nice-looking some-assembly-required bookcases for a reasonable price.
Another option is having shelves built directly into the walls of your home. This is almost always done when the home is being built, though it is possible to add them after the fact. Built-in shelves save space, obviously, and are sturdier than even the strongest freestanding bookcases. (There's no way to knock over built-in shelves unless you knocked the whole house over!) They are especially prized in small apartments or homes where space is otherwise at a premium. It's an option worth considering when looking for a new home.
About The Author
Martha Mountjoy writes for http://www.bookcaseset.com a website packed with resources on childrens bookcases articles and wooden bookcases.
By: Martha Mountjoy
In our modern, multi-media world, the idea of a "bookcase" is almost quaint. The items many people use as bookcases are sold as "entertainment storage units" and can also be used for CDs, DVDs and other media. These often come with adjustable shelves (to accommodate the variance in height between CDs and books) and are sold unassembled at places like Wal-Mart and Target.
These pre-fab storage units usually function well enough as bookcases, CDs racks or knickknack holders, but they lack the elegance and stateliness of the old-fashioned bookcases. They are usually made of cheaper material, too, and are not nearly as sturdy. They work well if you only have a couple dozen books to display, which is common today, as many consumers own far more CDs and DVDs than books anyway.
If you have a large library of books, a more traditional bookcase may be in order. The price range on these bookcases run the gamut, all the way from hand-crafted mahogany cases to less costly but still elegant shelves available at places like Pier 1 or Pottery Barn. The difference between them and the "entertainment storage units" is that these bookcases are usually made of higher quality wood and have the look of a traditional bookcase. The more expensive ones come already assembled and finished, but you can get very nice-looking some-assembly-required bookcases for a reasonable price.
Another option is having shelves built directly into the walls of your home. This is almost always done when the home is being built, though it is possible to add them after the fact. Built-in shelves save space, obviously, and are sturdier than even the strongest freestanding bookcases. (There's no way to knock over built-in shelves unless you knocked the whole house over!) They are especially prized in small apartments or homes where space is otherwise at a premium. It's an option worth considering when looking for a new home.
About The Author
Martha Mountjoy writes for http://www.bookcaseset.com a website packed with resources on childrens bookcases articles and wooden bookcases.
Thursday, March 13, 2008
Luxury Home Owners are Remodeling For A Quick Sale
By: Alexis Hunter
High priced homes all over are getting a quick remodel in order to the best house available on the market. Homeowners are updating the kitchen, putting in the best patio, or remodeling the master bathroom at all costs. These folks know that whatever the price of a fabulous remodel will pay off in the end when their house is the best and has the quickest sale.
One of the key ways to raise the value of an already valuable home is to do an extensive kitchen remodel. There is just nothing like a new Thermador range or that gourmet kitchen space. Thermador offers appliances from ovens to refrigerators to coffee machines. They are high-end items and add value to the home as well as making a fine presentation. In fact, a kitchen remodel can be the focal selling point in a luxury home.
Overall curb appeal is also taken to a whole new level when it comes to premier properties. Concrete for example has taken a new turn with stamped concrete which is a newer design concept which began back east in the 1950's. It is finally coming into its own upscale designer treatment with the invention of more technically correct stamping tools which make it hard to determine if an item is really paved with slate or stamped with a concrete pattern. Stamp patterned driveways and patios add that special touch to the outside of your home. When you remodel the outside of your home it really adds flair as well as value. Fancy driveways, patios and walkways are a great selling point.
Many are willing to buy the upscale home and then do extensive remodeling once they take possession of the residence. People buying luxury homes are looking for something a bit above the rest and they want amenities in the home to reflect their leisurely lifestyle. They are open to adding any features that aren't already present in the home if they want it bad enough. These buyers have specific requirements in the homes they buy, such as elaborate security systems, gourmet or designer kitchens, home theaters to seat 6 or more, and even wine cellars. As a result, they are willing to do extensive remodels on their homes to raise their property value. They desire furniture and décor to match their lavish taste.
When it comes to remodeling, the options are limitless and it really does come down to personal preference and improving the overall value in your home will be a great benefit down the road - so go for it!
About The Author
Alexis Hunter is the Marketing Director for The Morel Group, http://www.themorelgroup.com , which specializes in Fine Rancho Cucamonga Homes. The Morel Team Marketing Experts spare no expense in showcasing your property.
High priced homes all over are getting a quick remodel in order to the best house available on the market. Homeowners are updating the kitchen, putting in the best patio, or remodeling the master bathroom at all costs. These folks know that whatever the price of a fabulous remodel will pay off in the end when their house is the best and has the quickest sale.
One of the key ways to raise the value of an already valuable home is to do an extensive kitchen remodel. There is just nothing like a new Thermador range or that gourmet kitchen space. Thermador offers appliances from ovens to refrigerators to coffee machines. They are high-end items and add value to the home as well as making a fine presentation. In fact, a kitchen remodel can be the focal selling point in a luxury home.
Overall curb appeal is also taken to a whole new level when it comes to premier properties. Concrete for example has taken a new turn with stamped concrete which is a newer design concept which began back east in the 1950's. It is finally coming into its own upscale designer treatment with the invention of more technically correct stamping tools which make it hard to determine if an item is really paved with slate or stamped with a concrete pattern. Stamp patterned driveways and patios add that special touch to the outside of your home. When you remodel the outside of your home it really adds flair as well as value. Fancy driveways, patios and walkways are a great selling point.
Many are willing to buy the upscale home and then do extensive remodeling once they take possession of the residence. People buying luxury homes are looking for something a bit above the rest and they want amenities in the home to reflect their leisurely lifestyle. They are open to adding any features that aren't already present in the home if they want it bad enough. These buyers have specific requirements in the homes they buy, such as elaborate security systems, gourmet or designer kitchens, home theaters to seat 6 or more, and even wine cellars. As a result, they are willing to do extensive remodels on their homes to raise their property value. They desire furniture and décor to match their lavish taste.
When it comes to remodeling, the options are limitless and it really does come down to personal preference and improving the overall value in your home will be a great benefit down the road - so go for it!
About The Author
Alexis Hunter is the Marketing Director for The Morel Group, http://www.themorelgroup.com , which specializes in Fine Rancho Cucamonga Homes. The Morel Team Marketing Experts spare no expense in showcasing your property.
How To Find A Bathroom Contractor
Remodeling Small Bathrooms Selecting a bathroom makeover contractor
It's important to spend a lot of time designing your dream bathroom makeover before you start your project even when remodeling small bathrooms. It's just as important to find the right set of contractors but the process of finding and selecting the bathroom contractors that are right for you is often overlooked. Is it any wonder then that so many people have problems with their bathroom renovation?
Selecting your bathroom remodeling contractor team is a two-step process. First you need to find and contact a number of contractors and ask them to give you a quote for the job. Then you need to select the right contractor from the list of those that provided an acceptable quotation.
To find out whether a contractor is right for your project you will need to research the reputation of the contractor. You can do this by asking staff in bathroom showrooms; someone will have some information if the contractor is active in the area. B etter still, you can ask the contractor for references of clients that they have worked for. Make sure that you follow up the references before hiring any contractors.
How to find bathroom contractors that you can invite to give you a quotation.
There are a number of ways to find contacts for bathroom contractors that might be suitable for your project. There is a selection of methods listed below and you should use them all to produce a comprehensive list of home improvement specialists that you might want to use.
Be prepared for a lot of rejections. When I was looking for suitable contractors to remodel my small bathroom I found it difficult to find even a small number that were prepared to look at the job and some of those never got in contact after they had seen my requirements. Don't give up though, you will find one eventually even if you have to go on their waiting list.
Bathroom remodeling contractors in the telephone book
This is a good place to start. Call all the Home Improvement and Bathroom remodeling contractors and ask them for a free quotation.
Use the Internet search engines
Get online and use the search engines to find bathroom-remodeling contractors in your area. You could then try sending them an email but it's probably best to give them a call.
Friends and family
Personal recommendations are often the best. If you can find someone who has had similar work done and can recommend the contractor that did the work for them then you have found a very good candidate for your project. Make sure that you follow up any recommendations made personally.
Friends of friends
Some of your friends might know of others that have had their bathrooms remodelled recently. Make sure that you ask everyone you can think of and do your best to talk to anyone you can find who might have some information.
Neighbours
You may not be friendly with your neighbours but that shouldn't stop you asking them a bout any small bathroom remodeling projects that they might know about. Most people are happy to give you this kind of information freely if they can.
Bathroom showroom pin-boards
Many bathroom showrooms have pin boards where contractors leave their business cards. This can be an invaluable resource for finding good contractors. Be sure that you ask the showroom staff if they can give you any information before you leave with the cards.
Real estate agents
Real estate agents and especially letting agents can often suggest names of bathroom remodeling contractors because they have to deal with them on a regular basis. It helps if you give them a hint that you might be looking to purchase new property soon too.
You can take this a step further and actually ask to view property on the market that has recently undergone a bathroom remodel. This can give you more ideas about how you want your new small bathroom to look.
There is more about this technique in the article Bathroom Remodeling Idea
Design your new bathroom layout with free graph paper Free Graph Paper for Bathroom Remodeling Ideas at http://www.bathroomsremodeling.this-info.com/ Steve GeeFinishing Your BasementContractor FraudLandscape ContractorHow To Create A Designer KitchenSerious Structural Problems
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Selecting Your Carpet
By: Sintilia Miecevole
We've all done it. Every time we invest in new carpet, we take an internal oath and solemnly swear we will take care of this brand new carpet, and rightfully so. It doesn't take a mathematical genius to know that for most folks, the third largest investment after the purchase of our home and cars is the home's interior.
So we read the manufacturer's warranty and notice that it says to vacuum often. Daily might be the frequency in the high traffic areas. But who has time any more to spend maintaining carpets on a daily basis? The only time you see people vacuum that frequently is in the hotel and motel industry.
Rarely does one actually see the carpets being replaced at the hotel and motel industry unless there is a major remodeling project happening with new color schemes to match. So it would serve one well to learn from the hospitality business.
How do we usually buy carpet? In most cases it comes with the home already installed. It will either be a newly built or a previously owned re-sale home. If a new home was built, if you are in the beginning stages of construction, you have a choice to upgrade to the better carpet and padding offered. Or you can choose the cheapest carpet known to mankind commonly referred to as 'builder's grade' materials which also includes the cheapest, thinnest carpet pad also known as 'FHA grade' 2 lb. rebond.
Sure the carpet is fuzzy and comes in a light color and the padding might as well be called foam because it easily crushes to the sub-floor when any weight is applied on the carpet's surface. After all, carpet is just carpet and pad is just pad, right? WRONG. Once again the old adage "You get what you pay for" still rings true.
DuPont, one of the top four major fiber producers, conducted a study years ago about the behaviors of the consumer as related to the way they make a purchase decision when it comes to picking carpet. I suppose human behavior still has not evolved that much since. Please note that the following results are not a misprint.
They rank from number one to number five in order:
1. Color 2. Color 3. Color 4. Texture 5. Price
While not disclosed, the first three might have been trying to color match the hard surface flooring like tile, hardwood flooring or stone. The second might be for the paint in a given room and the last color match to compliment the home's other furnishings such as window treatments, and furniture.
Texture refers to the 'feel' also known as the hand of the carpet referring to how it feels when you touch the carpet by hand. It would also take into account the weight of carpet measured in ounces. For example, a carpet weighing 32 oz. per square inch has more carpet fibers then say a 16 ounce carpet. A good way to test this principle is to go to carpet a retailer and ask to see two different swatches.
For example with all things being equal, such as the same Carpet Fiber Producer manufactured by DuPont, same carpet fibers milled at Shaw Industries, same color dye lot, etcetera, you can perform this simple comparison test side by side.
Simply form your fingers like a claw and push directly straight down from top to the bottom of the fibers using your fingertips only. You should notice an immediate difference in carpet density. It will also reflect in the price per square yard. The difference is the number of stitches per square inch. On a much more dense carpet, it will be difficult to see down to the primary backing where the carpet is stitched in.
Here's the benefit: If there are more carpet pile fibers, then each carpet fiber actually supports one another side by side on all four corners of the fiber forming a nap. The less pile there is opens up the potential damage for gritty soil to 'cut' the fibers at the base of the pile where the primary backing is. This cutting effect comes with every step, pivot and turn on the carpet nap's surface. This also causes thinning, pitting and marring of fibers making carpets dull in appearance even after restorative cleaning.
It is also worth mentioning that 60 percent of the soil that falls into the carpet can be removed safely and effectively with routine dry vacuuming of high traffic areas such as halls, stairs, entry ways and traffic paths in front of furniture. This single process alone can greatly extend the performance and life use of the carpet. Remember the hospitality industry housekeepers?
The second most fatal mistake a carpet purchaser can make is ignoring the quality of the carpet pad. Padding for the subfloor is like the spine of the carpet. It provides support to aid in preventing indentations left by heavy furniture legs after re-arranging a room.
It also has the job of holding water like a sponge whenever a copious amount water floods the room such as a broken water pipe. It provides the comfort under our footing so our feet and backs don't ache. This is the one place you don't have to worry about the color matching as the carpet will cover all the pad.
Pad is also measured in ounces and pounds. Once again, the higher the number, the more dense the pad. The density can range in feeling. By using a pinch test between the top and bottom of the pad you can compare densities. There is foam all the way up to feeling like a large pencil eraser. The higher the better.
Try to stay away from rubber based products like a waffle print as they have been known to dry rot where hot water pipes run through the concrete subflooring. They also don't provide any absorption for collecting water spills. In fact in a typical flood scenario, the water just continues to migrate further by saturating a greater area of carpet space.
It would also be wise to choose the right carpet for the right application. If you were born during Baby Boomer era, you would have ran into carpets that were made from polyester. Those fibers were dyed first before they were extruded as fiber. They never faded from the sun or bleach spills and lasted forever but were harder to clean.
Nylon came around and was softer to the hand and cleaned up better but spills could permanently stain the fibers and due to costs, generally come in lighter colors. Almost all darker colors will be more expensive to produce due to more dye in the process. More dyes prevented stains due to the lack of dye sites available.
Fourth Generation carpets removed the nuisance of static electricity when walking across a room and touching anything conductive to release a jolting shock.
Fifth Generation carpets involved the incorporation of stain resist carpets. The key to this technology was to create a transparent dye. Normally after dyeing half of the carpet's dye sites in a light color the remaining dye sites would be open for stains once installed. The solution was solved by re-dyeing the remaining dye sites with a transparent dye. Dye sites are like skin pores on your arm.
Benefit:
If all dye sites on a fiber are filled, then no stains could penetrate immediately. This would give the end user time to remove the stain later even if it dried on in many cases.
The last point to consider is the primary backing of carpets. For a number of years, India exported to the United States jute which is what ropes are made of. An unfortunate deadly industrial accident involving chemicals at Union Carbide's battery plant, cause strained relations between both countries and jute stopped being exported.
Jute backed carpets also occurred when they became wet from flooding. The natural fiber made of plant (organically)based material released a tannin dye similar to coffee and bled into the carpet's surface; thereby causing it to permanently discolor the carpet and ruin it.
It was also a food source for mold and mildew and if not treated quickly, it would dry rot causing the primary and secondary backing to delaminate and destroy the carpet.
Since the mid 1980's polypropylene backing has become the norm. It's a tough as fishing line and can hold up to most abuse end users give it. It's also cheaper to produce. In fact, 70 percent of all carpets involved in a clear water food damage loss can be dried, cleaned and re-engaged with no evidence of a pre-loss condition.
Good luck on your next carpet purchase as you now possess more knowledge than most of the carpet cleaners and retailers in the industry. And don't forget to vacuum!
About The Author
Sintilia Miecevole, host has a keen interest in carpets as you can see on http://www.iwantcarpet.com.
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